A day after what I described as a “sublime” dinner at Purnell’s, I was at Opheem for another meal which I shall also describe as - spoilers - “sublime”.
This restaurant is so good. It is difficult to fault and not to praise with the most generous of adjectives. It is an experience of the highest grade. From the delightful amuses gueles served with an aperitif in the comfortable, spacious, perfectly judged atmosphere of the lounge by front of house staff who interact with the diners unimpeachably to each course served in the equally spacious and pleasing dining room, its lighting just right, the background music interesting but unobtrusive, the thrill of the place matched by its calmness.
I opted for the five course menu but received rather more than five, each one a gustatory triumph. There was bhutta , the charred, spiced corn on the cob with its companion cornet of corn ice cream, a familiar and always welcome old friend to welcome you back to Opheem.
There was the fabulous gajar, a heritage carrot dish which shows that some heritage carrot dishes are not as tired as they often seem to be in some restaurants which serve them. A tiny lentil pakora brought a smile to my face and the soothing flavour of mint slotted in perfectly to the whole dish. How gorgeous it looked too. Then came another old friend - aloo tuk - with its achaari foir potatoes and the sweet fire of tamarind. Then the milk loaf with its accompanying mutton keema and malty dip.
But wait! Who’s that? At the pass - I recognise that face - not someone I expected to see - Chef Richard Turner, clearly not now in retirement. I asked if I was right in my identification and yes, it appeared I was - he does some sessions at Opheem having become tired of his retirement. “He still doesn’t smile but he’s happier now” and judging by the food being presented on his watch, in spanking good form.
After the sublime venison at Purnell’s the evening before, I was almost emotional to find that the mutton main course at Opheem this evening was of equal brilliance. Mutton it may have been but as tender and deliciously and mildly flavoured as any lamb. Served with a dopiaza sauce, the blackened onions tender and sweet with the zing of charring and there was leek to add to the flavour and texture.
A lovely dessert rounded it all off bringing with it cardomom and pistachio and white chocolate. Who can ask for anything more? Well a little more perhaps, back to the lounge for coffee and a selection of mignardises which included happy tiny white chocolate madeleines and a jelly and a macaroon.
All quite magical. And sublime.
🌞🌞🌞.
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