The Labrador and I took the bus from Stratford upon Avon past Shipston to Moreton in Marsh. This is a pretty market town, a gateway to the Cotswolds on the edge of Gloucestershire with numerous gorgeous Cotswold stone buildings reflecting its past and present wealth, for centuries tied to the wool industry. Home to the Michelin-listed Henne as well as some fine-looking inns and most, if not all, dog-friendly. An early lunch, to tie in with the return bus times, at the lovely Black Bear Inn - spacious and bright with an enticing menu.
Given my love for Ploughman’s Lunches, and bearing in mind I was going to dinner in the evening, I opted for the PL and very pleased too I was with it. There was a remarkably tasty warm scotch egg, memorable sausage meat surrounding a reasonably well cooked though not totally runny egg with a good slice of fabulous local ham, sweet cocktail onions, leaves, a generous chunk of bread and a not entirely memorable Cheddar cheese. But washed down with cider this made for a very happy meal in a lovely setting.
Rating:- 🌛🌛.
The dog and I wandered around the town ahead of the return journey noting the other inns nearby but dismayed by the sight and sound of the constant, very heavy motor traffic, swollen by the large number of tourist motor coaches, running along the main road which cuts through the town. A Cotswold haven ruined.
In the evening, to The Woodsman in Stratford upon Avon for dinner, hopeful that it had pulled itself together compared with the last two or three times I had dined there. My hopes, however, were dashed. Again the meal was made up of overworked dishes and challenging combinations when more simplicity may have had a more pleasing outcome. After a pleasing cocktail, I chose a starter of Terrine of free-range chicken, with confit leg and smoked breast, chicken liver parfait, red grapes, frisée salad and truffle dressing. The terrine which looked gaudy and extravagant was rather dry and the grapes were a relief with their sweetness. Not a great pleasure.
I chose a main of Fillet of Cornish stone bass served with dull, wood fired ratte potatoes, welcome Salcombe crab, the inevitable sea herbs which did contribute and a cucumber butter sauce which also worked quite well. The fish itself was on the edge of being overcooked but acceptable but it can not be said that it was visually alluring. The sweet cucumber pickle brought a little life to this dowdy dish.
I chose a fairly disastrous dessert - poached and marinated local plums which were largely flavourless - my plum tree at home has yielded some beautifully delicious and sweet plums this year so these dull boys came as a great disappointment. The dreary fruit was accompanied by tiny fragments of sponge cake - claimed to be a hazelnut financier on the menu, a hazelnut crumble which for me was too much texture and the pleasurable relief of a wood fired plum sorbet which was the one light in an expensive and sorry effort by whoever was taking on the role of pastry chef.
The Head Chef and management seriously need to rethink what they’re doing to the food at this restaurant and restore a degree of simplicity to ensure that fine ingredients are more easily appreciated.
Rating:- 🌛.
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