Purnell’s. A special evening of champagne and a four course menu for Purnell’s particular fans. Irresistible. An evening of generous quaffing of Piper Heidsiek champagne served by Adrien Garnier and a truly sublime four course meal which, let’s face it, has long been a meal of choice with its accompanying few extras. Extras there were - gorgeous snacks of crab and caviar springs to mind.
The starter was quite suburb. Purnell par excellence. A combination of cherry and beetroot, matching perfectly - an accurate balance of flavours and textures. As great a starter as you will find anywhere. Feed it me everyday for the rest of my life please.
Then a fish course of scallop - who doesn’t love a scallop? - Glynn Purnell really knows his audience. A delicious combination here to bring out the sweetness of that mighty mollusc, cooked to the most perfect degree. With it came maitake, the earthiness an ideal match for the sea of the scallop, enhanced by the xo sauce, and artichoke and potato pressé.
The main of venison was simple and sublime. Gorgeous, absolutely spot-on venison, as tender as butter, and with it white garlic, very fine red wine salsify and shallot.
Finally a blackberry and hazelnut delice - ‘tis certainly the time o’year for such as dish - and beautifully complemented by the refreshing zing of lemon mascarpone.
This meal demonstrates that there’s life in the old master yet, how a four course meal can be pleasurable when compared with the survival course of a prolonged tasting menu and how relative simplicity may yet give the greatest satisfaction.
Rating:- 🌞🌞🌞
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