397. Hotel Du Vin Bistro, Stratford-Upon-Avon.

 

    When in Stratford - and staying at the dog-friendly Hotel Du Vin - do as the French do. Just as, by extension, when staying in Paris where Molière was born - do as the English do - well perhaps that would not be entirely wise given the amount of shoulder shrugging which would result. Regardless, Lucy The Labrador and I were passing the weekend in Stratford to enable me to attend the Birthday lunch and stabling ourselves at the chic, if expensive (especially at this particular weekend) Hotel Du Vin.

  Sunday dinner was needed and I opted to dine in house. The dining room is modern and in the style of the rest of the hotel. The music is a little too loud and not quite in character with the Gallic nature of it all but the service is satisfactory though mildly muddled at times and the menu promising with some Gallic delights on offer.

  French onion soup is irresistible and I chose it as my starter. Underneath a happy melted cheese lid was a tasty soup with plenty of pleasing, tender slices of onion though I have had sweeter onions but nonetheless this was a pleasure to dive into (see illustration at the head of this piece).

  In addition to a menu with a generous but sensible amount of choice on it, there was a ‘Specials board’ which had some heavily priced items on it. But - like French onion soup - I can not resist a sole when it’s on offer and the noble fish can not be better served than when it is sole meurnière and so I plunged into ordering from the board.

  The sole was indeed a magnificent beast, and was prepared beautifully with a perfect texture and nicely seasoned. I should have liked a little more citrus but this was a fine dish, larger than many of the soles that have been offered unto me in recent times and so, I guess, the higher price was understandable. All accompaniments were extra but I opted for the very toothsome pomme purée with Camembert which was lovely.

  There’s a sound argument for sometimes eating meals in reverse. Desserts are for me very much an afterthought and I would often rather not have one if only because I am too full to enjoy them coming, as they do, as the meal’s curtain is winding down. Being served two desserts is the sort of thing, in my opinion, that happens to souls in purgatory and that is something which tasting menus often inflict on the innocent with or without their consent. 

  I always like to see what is being offered on the dessert menu and I always find the presence of tarte tatin to be a temptation but frequently reject that naughty French pleasure in the knowledge that it would overfill me. Such was the case this particular evening. Now, if dessert were served at the beginning of the meal, then the tarte tatin would have been winging its way to my table in next to no time.

  Regardless (shrugging of shoulders) - I signed off with two pleasingly sharp sorbets - lemon and blood orange and felt I had dined well.

Rating:- 🌛🌛🌛🌛