385.The Wilderness’ First Sunday Lunch.

 

  In these difficult times restaurateurs must be innovative and prepared to do whatever is necessary to keep their businesses afloat. Few try as hard as Alex Claridge to innovate and ensure that The Wilderness is still there serving up the food that is liked by those who wish to eat something a little different from Sunday roast or steak and chips. His latest innovation at The Wilderness is Sunday lunch featuring almost a Sunday roast but, as one might expect, with a twist so that it is not quite a Sunday roast.

  People obviously like being able to do an alternative lunch judging by the way all the tables were taken up on the very first Sunday lunch at The Wilderness. Sonal Clare was there, larger than life, bringing a buzz to the place all by himself and Marius Gedminas, who might just be the best chef in Birmingham, was at the pass, bathed in The Wilderness’ unique light and particular sound.

  There’s no need to set the scene more than that.

  Starters were different. No bowls of tomato soup or prawn cocktails at The Wilderness. Oh no, but one day I yearn to experience a Claridge/Gedminas prawn cocktail reimagining. It would be something of beauty I am sure. But this Sunday starters took the form of fine sourdough flatbreads - four toppings in all - mussel marinière with mussel mayonnaise and crème fraîche, caviar and Normandy crème fraîche (flatbreads rarely come at £36 a portion but if you’ve got it why not flaunt it?) and the two I chose (I was accorded the honour of being served two half-flatbreads) - wild garlic and aged parmesan (the cheese won through here, the garlic needed more oomph)  and the splendid mushroom butter with lardo and pistachios, the texture of which really made this memorable.

  Cow made up the main course in four forms - aged Cumbrian flatiron at ££22, aged Jersey rib eye at £35, dairy cow sirloin at £28 and immaculate A5 Wagyu striploin at £65. I did not regret opting for the Wagyu - butter-tender though did it need a little more seasoning or would that have been a travesty? I chose horseradish gremolata to accompany the beef but was not able to get any real hit from the horseradish.

 With the Wagyu there was a choice of Sunday roast vegetables - Wagyu fat roast potatoes - strikingly crisp and internally tender with the subtle thrill of the flavour of aged vinegar; pleasing creamy cauliflower cheese (sans truffle) and a half portion of barbecued carrot with a tasty curry butter and smoked yoghurt. I was not entirely sure that I needed the curry as much as I liked the flavour, it may have one element too far.

  Still, a very, very fine Sunday lunch. I challenge you to find another Sunday lunch experience like this.

  There was just one dessert. - a perfectly judged ‘sticky truffle pudding’, which is self-descriptive served with artichoke caramel and Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Light and tasty - just right especially when accompanied by a small glass of the Australian Dandelion Vineyards Pedro Ximenez. 

  Ah, Sunday lunches will never be the same again.

Rating:- 🌞🌞.