T’was the night before Christmas when all through the hotel, the diners were stirring especially the Old Bloke. The amuses gueles were appearing and being enjoyed and so to dinner on a gastronomic voyage (a very loose adaptation of Clement Clarke Moore I fear who enjoyed his Christmas pleasures from 1799 to 1863).
Lucy The Labrador and I were already in the swing of our fourth consecutive Christmas at Fishmore Hall near Ludlow, having arrived the afternoon before and therefore both being settled in nicely. Over drinks in the bar, the amuse bouche, a tasty little frippery if ever there were one - a salty, crispy chip of potato rosti, had been served and nibbled at and then to the lovely conservatory in which Forelles is located, for the à la carte dinner to follow. There a came a lovely loaf with miso butter and cultured butter - very enjoyable - then a brilliant little butternut squash tart of the thinnest, crispiest pastry with softly textured pumpkin seeds inside it which added their only little autumn/winter feel to this little gem.
The main was remarkable. Forelles at its best. A lovely steak, shall we call it, of that fine, meaty fish, stone bass, cooked perfectly. With it came some very edible sea vegetables, a crispy and delicious Jerusalem artichoke terrine, crab bisque, crab with pickle (this may have been the only problem as the pickle rendered the crab a little bitter) and two splendidly crunchy tapioca crackers which were to this dish, what crackling is to pork. A memorable dish if ever there were one.
The celery and apple intermediate dish refreshed very nicely, as it was intended to do, and then on to dessert - again very successful, a beautifully almondy Financier, nicely textured and sitting in a little tart and complemented with not unreasonably sharp raspberry sorbet.
And so another Shropshire Christmas had begun. God bless us, everyone.
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