I enjoy Simpsons’ collaborations as previous blogs have borne witness but an occasion that matched Luke Tipping’s food with good English wine was something not to be missed. And the promise was not broken.
Simpsons’ canapés themselves are a delight - a mouthful of pleasure - and then on to a starter of deliciously cured Loch Duart salmon exalted by a pleasing oyster emulsion and a dear Simpsons old friend in the form of frozen horseradish, Then came substantial scallops with an apt and pleasing seaweed beurre blanc and nicely accompanied by kindly flavoured chicory. Gusborne, meanwhile, was providing some pleasing pairings.
The main course was remarkable - gorgeously tasty and stupendously tender beef with hazelnut and cep pesto, the sublime richness of winter truffle and a fine Albufera sauce, said to be best with poultry and duck, but very nicely served with this dish.
Then, a luxurious and resonant cheese course of full-flavoured Baron Bigod on a malted waffle made sparkling with autumn truffle, honey which is a friend in whose company Baron Bigod blossoms so perfectly and with it, the added sweetness of fermented plum.
For the dessert proper, an absolutely delightful apricot and almond tart served with mascarpone ice cream. This all added up to a very fine meal and one of my most favourite of 2023.
Finally, where to dine in town on a Monday evening? I think Itihaas is my favourite city centre south Asian restaurant (except, of course, Opheem). It is plush and moody and something of a time capsule of how the best Indian restaurants once looked but the menu, still extensive but not extravagantly so, The front of house staff look smart and are polite, aptly friendly and efficient. And the food takes one back to the glory days of Birmingham’s town centre Indian eateries but still has an up-to-date feel to it. I like the place.
Comfortably seated in my side cubicle, I set about demolishing a large platter of poppadoms served with some spicy but rather unadventurous pickles and chutneys.
Then a starter of plump, tasty minced lamb sheet kebabs, oozing with the flavour of sheep and easy to gluttonise on. These were no ordinary kebabs.
Next, I felt a need for fenugreek and singled out the dish of methi murgh which I paired with sweet Peshwari naan and ate with a relish almost unseemly. Hot and dry and generous in portion - this dish was cleverly crafted to be retro but contemporary at the same time.
Sadly, I was too full for a dessert though all those featured on the menu looked promising and traditional.
Itihaas is like much of its food - interesting and comforting without the glitz of the over-rated Asha’s. Tom Cruise, the American film actor, may have been taken to the latter and have famously ordered two main courses there but I prefer the more subdued, old world atmosphere of Itihaas and of the two, that is where I would choose to dine.
Rating:- 🌞
Plenty of hype is to be expected now that the date of the ‘Reveal ceremony’ of the 2024 edition of the Great Britain and Ireland Michelin Guide has been, er, revealed. The always toe-curlingly embarrassing ceremony is to be held on Monday 25 February in a town in the north-west of England. Perhaps holding it ‘Oop North’ will bring a bit of gritty Lancashire sense to the extravaganza. There’s nothing worse than witnessing tattooed, over-large chefs, many of them inarticulate for much of the time, trying to answer some banal questions put to them by some glamourised female presenter who clearly has minimal knowledge of food and the hospitality industry. At least one can hope so.
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