The weather in June in recent years if I remember correctly, and being an old bloke I probably don’t, has been somewhat disappointing. But not 2023. Sun, almost without a break, heat and blue skies with just a day or two of thunder and deluge, which must be put up with, for after all, this is England. Much dining out and little time to report it. So here are the highlights.
My usual birthday dinner at Purnell’s was delayed to accommodate guests from here, there and everywhere, old friends in both senses of the word, not all making it to Birmingham as was hoped. But in the end, Purnell’s once more came up with the goods - its obligatory Saturday tasting menu looking very familiar but dishes tweeted enough to once more delight my guests.
The dishes -
The black canary potatoes and edible charcoal with chorizo dip were as enjoyable as ever and I would happily live on a diet of them. The Emotions of Soixante Dix disappointed me - I could have done with a stronger contribution from the pineapple, though everyone else derived considerable enjoyment and amusement from it.
The outstanding dish, I thought, was the Cornish sea bream ceviche with radish, yuzu koto and the taste of orange. I didn’t have the Haddock and eggs remix and I did not photograph it but my fellow diners said they enjoyed the dish. Next came, alas, overcooked Scottish halibut with a fine champagne and mussel velouté with Yukon Gold potatoes and caviar to up the ante on the luxuriousness of the ingredients.
The main of fine Wiltshire lamb was finely cooked though not heavily burdened with flavour. The accompanying elements, including morels and black garlic purée, added interest to the dish.
I enjoyed the rhubarb-centred dessert and of course who could be distraught at being served Purnell’s egg custard surprise? though I don’t like the latest twist on the dish with the apple and cognac lurking under the custard. If the egg surprise has taken a turn for the worse, the mint choccy chip is better than ever so all was well that ended well.
There’s just a little nagging thought. Is it time for Purnell’s to evolve to make it more like a 2020s restaurant than a 2010 dining establishment? Fashions change and that’s as true now with gastronomy as with clothing or decor. Perhaps it’s time to make witty comments on the plate about 2020s food and put the playful nostalgia on the back burner.
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