If I write about Forelles at Fishmore Hall it’s because I dine there a lot, staying at the hotel quite often as I and the Dog do.
The à la carte dinner I ate there recently was a triumph, up there at the top of the meals I have eaten so far this year. There was an exciting, delicious amuse gueule of haddock kedgeree with a quail’s egg, crispy wild rice and a beautiful lime green curry sauce. The surf and turf starter was very good, being made up of tasty salt beef terrine with crispy oyster and pickled mustard seeds bursting with sweetness and acidity
The main course was shamelessly delicious hogget served with a fabulous potato terrine, immaculately cooked layers of crispy lamb fat running through it, alongside accurately crispy coated lamb sweetbreads in an unctious sauce with precisely textured ribbons of courgette paired with precisely cooked asparagus, all brought together with a tasty lamb sauce. A very fine dish.
The blood orange intermediate dish hit the right notes needed to fulfill its role of refreshment and the dessert was a delight, made up as it was of very accurately cooked rhubarb, white chocolate in a tube of rhubarb jelly, perfectly moist and light pistachio cake, apt ginger sorbet, crystallised rhubarb and crunchy crushed pistachios, the whole very prettily decorated as one would expect.
It’s a pity that later in the week I found a revisit to the hogget dish to be a less happy one - the hogget was less accurately cooked and the potato terrine certainly overcooked, the sauce had evolved from unctious to claggy and the whole was disappointing after the immense pleasure experienced earlier in the week. Consistency is everything no matter who is in charge of the kitchen.
Rating:- 🌞
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