When my lunch companion and I arrived at Kray Tredwell’s 670 Grams we were a little surprised to find that the previously announced extension had not yet occurred and to find our chef carrying out the role of Maître D’Hotel. This was mid-week lunch and it was ridiculously quiet - just two other lunchers in this fabulously exciting dining establishment. What are Birmingham diners doing? There was a ten course lunch on offer for a remarkable £60 - ten courses of originality, excitement, intrigue, inventiveness and sheer pleasure. True I had, to my regret, not visited 670 Grams for a while - there are so many excellent local first rank restaurants to dine in that you may want to support but one just can not be everywhere all the time but it took a very short time to realise that Tredwell’s place is just too good not to be on my regular visiting list.
To be honest, Chef seemed remarkably relaxed in his front of house role and we enjoyed talking to him as the meal progressed. We were sat comfortably in the upstairs part of the restaurant and were feeling very happy - 670 Grams is unique and you just have to sit back and enjoy it as it engulfs you. Long may it continue to engulf the good burgers of Birmingham.
A happy start. The charred pineapple - delectable - and the shockingly spicy consommé. And we’re off. Our throats alight but the sensation soon diverted by the hilariously ironic chunk of Kray’s fried chicken served in a silly little pot graced with Chef’s portrait, bearded like the Colonel, and the inscription Kray FC. Cheeky. Profoundly enjoyable. Ironic. Having said that, perhaps the coating could have been a little crispier but one has to whinge a little in this modern age, doesn’t one?
Then a dish which made charred lettuce not only edible but divine and afterwards a tasty prawn dish with a remarkable sauce bursting with the flavour of prawn heads.
This was a real tasting menu. Kray Tredwell really knows how to deliver a multicourse series of excruciatingly tasty dips into this flavour or that flavour without overwhelming the diner with excessively sized dishes. He deserves more and more and more exposure and support.
Onwards to Tredwell’s hopelessly moreish, powerfully flavoured prawn bread and then a darling slice of perfectly cooked pork loin not at all insulted by the accompanying masala sauce and more grilled leaf, again confirming that in the hands of a genius, leaves can be cool. Slightly less successful was the chicken in a shisho leaf wrap but at least the leaf kept us close to the cutting edge - gastronomic orientalism continues. More successful was the accompanying Thai salad.
Transition arrives. Tredwell again surpasses himself in inventiveness. There is fine crispy pastry which combines savoury and sweet perfectly and eventually we end up with the prettiest little mignardise, all glowing yellow and orange and delicious.
So many delights served in just the right sized portions. I hope Tredwell’s enterprise flourishes for all our sakes.
Rating:- 🌞🌞.
No comments:
Post a Comment