Purnell’s Bistro seems to have been long in the making. It must be a couple of years ago that an announcement was made that Glynn Purnell was to open a restaurant in Coventry’s historic Charterhouse, situated rather awkwardly not that far from the city centre but approachable along busy roads and virtually impossible by foot. Still, a lovely setting especially on a bright, sunny spring afternoon.
Purnell is almost everywhere - Cornwall Street, Edmund Street, Henley in Arden and now Coventry - almost a chain but since each of his four restaurants are different, then not a chain at all. The Coventry branch of the Purnell culinary empire, Purnell’s Bistro, has opened in the past couple of weeks or so but has rapidly settled in - full of customers, bustling, good service and really excellent food. It’s a cross between The Mount, the old Purnell’s Bistro aka The Asquith in Newhall Street and Purnell’s Plates - mostly small plates, and splashes of Iberia and the Mediterranean.
Three dishes arrived together - crispy, delicious, golden cheese and leek croquettes, spicy chorizo with an honey and cider sauce and, my favourite, finally chopped grilled baby leeks with broccoli in a comforting but tongue-tingling romesco sauce. Finally had the special of very nicely priced 4oz rump steak, cooked exactly to my taste, seasoned perfectly and complemented by a very tasty chimichurri and very worthy of praise. This was a very successful meal. At times I found myself wolfing it down, so pleasurable was it.
I managed dessert which was rather limited in choice - just two dishes on offer, similar to Purnell’s Plates (not enough choice to be honest) - and I was pleased with the chocolate and hazelnut tart which I had chosen - the pastry was excellent though the whole was eventually rather dry and it would have benefitted from being served with some ice cream or sorbet
By the look of things, Glynn Purnell has set up a really enticing dining establishment in Coventry. The master seems to have struck again. But he needs to improve the restaurant’s approach to desserts.
Rating:- 🌛🌛🌛🌛.
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