230. The Mount.

 

  Amid much publicity and general food-loving public anticipation, Glynn Purnell’s first ‘pub’, The Mount, (see Blog 223) has finally opened across the road from the excellent Cheal’s of Henley on the main street of Henley-In-Arden. And so, on a bright, warm spring day here I am. And I love the place.

  As I walked down the road from the station the restaurant came into view. There was a flashy car parked outside and a minor madding crowd sitting outside drinking in the sunshine as well as drinking materials rather more liquid. There was a vaguely thrilling atmosphere before I even entered the building. Great stuff - it had the sort of excitement about the place that Glynn Purnell is so clever at conjuring up.

  A good welcome and I was guided to the dining room at the rear of the pub - the place was definitely bigger on the inside than on the outside. The first person to greet me was Chef himself and it was delightful to have a few words with him and shake his hand. He was clearly delighted with his new venture and, from what I could see, quite rightly too. The dining room was bright and modern with a lot of  pleasing art on the walls including some splendid flamingo pictures which could only find a place in a Purnell restaurant - quirky and playful with a twinkle in the eye humour. 

  And what a relief, the joy of Purnell’s former Gingers Bar was restored to me. The cocktail list had some  Gingers Bar classics on it and I enjoyed my scorched lemon and vanilla margarita so much that I lost all control and ordered a second. O, what pleasure.

    And so to the food.  My starter was fabulous - excruciatingly tasty Cheddar custard with equally excruciatingly tasty ‘sweet and sour tomatoes’ and pickled shallots and rocket (which of course I loathe but which fitted in perfectly with this dish). There’s no doubt - new kitchen but Glynn Purnell has not lost his touch.

  Then the main course of Wiltshire pork cutlet, tasty, tender, satisfying, perfectly cooked to my taste and served with delicious mash and charcutière sauce. What real pleasure. Then a pleasingly light dessert of mango parfait with grilled pineapple. All in all, a highly enjoyable lunch. This is a great addition to Glynn Purnell’s list of achievements. As I departed, Chef said farewell and it was a pleasure to have another short chat and hear how pleased he is with the new location which has attracted a scramble for reservations and to hear that he is opening a tapas bar in Edmund Street in a couple of months. That’s another interesting and exciting place to line up to visit.in the near future 

  

Chef and front of house? Why not?