70. Disappointment In The Wilderness At Star Result.

   Kray Treadwell, the young Brummie who latterly worked in Michael O’Hare’s Leeds restaurant The Man Behind The Curtain and made a notable impact in the 2019 Great British Menu BBC television programme, did some pop-up cooking at The Craft Dining Rooms in the International Convention Centre (ICC) in the city centre on 13 September 2019 and was due to repeat his appearance there on the coming Friday, 11 October 2019 but has now pulled out from the commitment. He made a similar no-show when he was due to cook with Alex Claridge at Nocturnal Animals in mid-July 2019. Both appearances were advertised to the public so we will all hope that an expected appearance in November will actually take place.

 Clearly feeling the need to express his feelings publically at having missed out on a Michelin star at last night’s awards ceremony Alex Claridge, Chef patron of The Wilderness, has sent out an e mail to his customers mentioning his and his staff’s profound disappointment and thanking his staff for their continued support and pledging to keep turning out fine food for his customers.

  The reasons for the award or non-award of a Michelin star are as mysterious as the Schleswig-Holstein question or the solution to the Brexit conundrum. Likely as much there is no solution. Stars mean a lot to a chef and quite rightly too and Claridge would probably be more likely to be awarded a star if his restaurant were in London, the Lake District or Dublin - places where the London-centric (plus a nice trip out-preference) inspectors want to be (not poor old Birmingham). But he can draw reassurance that at least he’s not in the Michelin-star deserts of Manchester or Liverpool. Let’s just hope that he keeps beavering away here in Birmingham and that his efforts are eventually recognised and rewarded by a passing Michelin inspector breaking his journey on the road from London to the Lake District.

69. Birmingham’s New Star.

  The Michelin Star awards ceremony held this evening (Monday 7 October) was, as usual, a mixture of long drawn-out tedium and toe curlingly cringeworthy moments. Really the organisers should get someone to introduce the whole shabang who actually knows how to ask questions of men who are obviously generally socially inept (except when in the company of fellow chefs especially if the chefs are men). In fact cutting out the questioning altogether would be a step that everyone would welcome. But the show had everything - a weeping Japanese chef, an Irishman well in his cups who wrestled Raymond Blanc to the floor in his state of half-drunken euphoria, a heavy sprinkling of swear words, numerous words of gratitude to various chefs’ mothers, a young and highly successful chef who pronounced that both he and his wife had been ‘going mental’ and a remarkable 

demonstration that the Michelin inspectors were all cashing in on their Irish second passports by sprinkling stars across that island.

  But from our point of view all that mattered was that Aktar Islam’s sublime Opheem has been awarded a Michelin star, the first Asian restaurant outside London to be so honoured. And deservedly so. Birmingham is back to 5 stars and Aktar has bolstered the city’s gastronomic reputation. In his on stage interview Aktar could not help but attribute his success to using his mother’s recipes. I for one would have been quite happy to see Mrs Islam on the stage along with him receiving her share of the Award!

  There were no other stars for Birmingham chefs and, though some thought it might happen, Adam’s did not increase its star score. In all there were 23 new one starred restaurants, 1 new 2 star restaurant which did not previously have a star at all, 2 new stars made up from 1 star and 1 new 3 star. Stars were sprinkled liberally over Ireland which makes me think that the inspectors are looking for a bolthole in the event of Brexit actually taking place.

  Meanwhile there is also good news for the West Midlands with the award of a Michelin star to chef Lee Westcott at Pensoms in Tenbury Wells in Worcestershire. My paternal grandmother was born there before coming to Birmingham in 1911 to work at the Bell Inn (long since closed and demolished) in Northfield and so the pleasant little town of Tenbury has a special place in my heart and the news is particularly pleasing to me. 

  Finally it’s worth mentioning that Manchester, which hilariously has not had a single Michelin-starred restaurant despite the city’s ‘second city’ pretensions for forty years, finally finds itself with a starred restaurant in the form of Mana. If it can get another four it’ll be starting to look a little more like a ‘second city’.

68. New Bib Gourmand In West Midlands.

  Michelin announced the names of the Bib Gourmand award winners a couple of days ahead of the 2020 awards ceremony to take place in west London.
  The West Midlands gained one and lost one while there were a total of 22 new Bib Gourmands handed out nationally which were more than cancelled out by 33 deletions bringing the total in the Guide to 132.
  Made By Bob in Cirencester was deleted from the list but pleasingly The Duncombe Arms in Ellastone in Staffordshire received the award for the first time. The Inn at Welland in Great Malvern/Welland (Worcestershire) and The Charlton Arms in Ludlow (Shropshire) both retain their Bibs.
  The publication of the Michelin Star winners for 2020 is awaited with the usual degree of  anticipation.

67. Recently Opened Woodsman Sets An Early Pace.

  After complaining by habit about The Good Food Guide a companion and myself followed its recommendations and headed for Stratford-upon-Avon to have lunch at The Woodsman, the fairly recently opened restaurant in the expensively refurbished Falcon Hotel, now known as the Hotel Indigo, in Chapel Street. The Executive Chef of The Woodsman is Mike Robinson who is the co-owner of the Michelin-starred Harwood Arms in Fulham and the Head Chef is Jon Coates. The focus of the restaurant is the cooking of a range of meats - British game, beef, Hebridean lamb - as well as fish from Cornwall with the large wood-fired oven and charcoal grill at the heart of the kitchen. The restaurant opened in April 2019 in this 16th century building and its decor is pleasant and comfortable, aptly both rustic and modern.

  The waiting staff were perfectly satisfactory though an occasional smile might have been pleasing. Food was placed on our table without explanation which in some ways was a relief as I can’t bear waiting staff giving long explanations of what is on my plate often with an inaudible voice and frequently with an indecipherable accent rendering the whole business completely unrewarding. On the other hand when special dishes such as those served at The Woodsman are put in place a few words introducing the occupants of the plate set before one can be helpful.

The starter lived up to my expectations of what The Good Food Guide’s ‘Best New Entry, UK’ should be serving up. Both my companion and I chose the miraculous, gloriously rustic, shockingly delicious Pressed terrine of pork and duck and pistachios with scintillating pickled chestnut, an unctuous chutney and a shock of a slice of pickled gherkin along with a good-sized slice of sourdough. This was a dish to dream about in years to come - on the surface simple but with some wonderful flavours with the terrine which was of perfect consistency and the mild stings of the delightful accompanying pickles. If  only I could have a stock of the terrine and its accompaniments in my fridge at home to savour whenever I wish to do so. The most delicious terrine I’ve had in a long time.

  For our main courses I chose dry-aged côte de porc with endive and caramelised apple and my companion chose partridge with which he was very satisfied. My pork chop was notable for its size and its gorgeous tenderness and how lovely it was to find apple accompanying it (chefs so often fiddle about with some other fruit to accompany pork and fail to realise that apple and pork are a long and happily married couple and no other innovative interloper can be replace the apple in that perfectly companionable relationship). The endive did not really thrill me and I initially felt resentful at being asked to pay £5.50 for a really rather small dish of ‘dirty mash’ and £5 for an equally small dish of creamed spinach but the mash was exquisite and the spinach unimpeachable and added to the sublime pleasure of this beautifully delicious British main course sans foam and all the other tiresome prerequisites of ‘modern British’ cuisine. 

  For the curious, ‘dirty mash’ is a lust-inducing combination of heavily buttery mashed potato with braised oxtail, lardons, crispy onions and English truffle. For this sidedish alone, I suspect The Woodsman was admitted to The Good Food Guide. I sit here as I write telling myself that I must have more of The Woodsman’s dirty mash and the sooner the better. 

For dessert I chose a fine pumpkin cheesecake enhanced by cinnamon ice cream and salted pumpkin. It did not leave me ecstatic but comfortably pleasured and there is no reason to complain about that.

66. A Star For The Wilderness?

  As mentioned in Blog 64, for the second year running The Good Food Guide inexplicably failed to include Alex Claridge’s The Wilderness in its proud-to-be-a-Londoner pages. There must be a certain sense of anticipation therefore, with the upcoming publication of The Michelin Guide Great Britain And Ireland 2019, lurking in the heart of the Jewellery Quarter that revenge will be a banquet served er, well fresh hot and scalding and Claridge’s sheer genius will finally be recognised by the award of a Michelin star. Certainly, as depicted above, the website Great British Chefs seems to be of the opinion that The Wilderness will join the constellation of Birmingham’s starred restaurants.

  Indulging in some enjoyable speculation Great British Chefs tips Nottingham’s Restaurant Sat Bains With Rooms to reach this year the vertigo-inducing heights of the award of 3 Michelin stars but no other Midlands restaurants are considered to be teetering on the edge of such greatness or even of achieving the lesser greatness of two little twinkly items. 

  Great British Chefs does stick its head out and predict that the seeming gastronomic wasteland of that always-the-bridesmaid city of Manchester will finally be awarded not one but two stars - one for Adam Reid At The French and another for Mana (I do hope not - it’s such an amusing little running joke that the Michelin inspectors play every year and to end it now would take all the fun out of things - it’s rather like the way all the television viewers in Europe always give nul points to the British entry in the Eurovision Song Contest - life just wouldn’t be the same if Manchester had a 

Michelin star and it would be one less thing for that city’s population to whine about. Still it would make all the BBC luvvies who’ve moved there feel that living in the gritty north might have one little compensation after all).

  Back to the West Midlands and Great British Chefs also suggests that Pensons in the Netherwood Estate in Worcestershire may also be awarded its first Michelin star under its chef Lee Westscott reflecting its new entry into The Good Food Guide this year.

  The chefs and restauranteurs just have a few days left to wait to find out.

  

65. A Pulpería For Birmingham Courtesy Of Aktar Islam.

Pulpería 1820 by Pancho Fierro (1809-79).

  The Birmingham Post reported in its 19 September 2019 edition that celebrity chef, Aktar Islam, currently riding high with his excellent Opheem restaurant (featured in The Good Food Guide) but not so firmly mounted with his Legna restaurant (understandably not featured in The Good Food Guide), is to open another restaurant in Birmingham, this time in Brindleyplace, in which the emphasis will be on Argentine steakhouse-style food.

  The restaurant is due to open in November 2019 and, as well as specialising in steaks, will sell fish, grilled chicken and vegetarian options though I always wonder about why anyone would want to visit a steakhouse and then not order steak. It’s rather like watching Peaky Blinders and switching off every time someone swears an obscenity or commits an act of violence.

  The Post quotes Islam as saying that, “I’ve spent a lot of time in Argentina and have been fortunate enough to have some truly wonderful experiences in the country which I want to share with diners in Birmingham”.

  The restaurant will be named Pulperia. Pulperías, so Wikipedia tells me, were the names given to company stores and dining facilities in parts of South America most notably in the sodium nitrate extraction industries in northern Chile between 1850 and 1930. Wikipedia tells us that the pulperías were establishments which “combined the services of the general stores and the Wild West barroom of the United States in the nineteenth century”. One hopes that Iqbal’s restaurant will neither resemble a general stores nor carry the risks of Jesse James or Wyatt Earp stepping into the establishment whilst one is cutting away at one’s steak. Presumably not as Iqbal describes to The Post that the restaurant will feature a “plush dining room”.

  That all sounds very exciting and I look forward to discovering for myself whether or not Iqbal has come up with another Opheem or another Legna. The other question I have in my mind is whether 

the restaurant will be named Pulperia or Pulpería.

64. Good Food Guide 2020.

  I now have my copy of The Good Food Guide 2020 and so I feel able to write my opinion of it in more detail than before. It is as usual a blend of vague usefulness and pretentious silliness. As we might expect it is London-centric with the English provinces forming an addendum from page 167.

  Elizabeth Carter’s editorial deals firstly with the subject of reducing food waste - a sort of 1950s schoolboy’s nightmare of “eat up everything on your plate or else .... “, the role of restaurant chains and then quite rightly identifying the problem of people who make a reservation and then fail to turn up for it thus costing by this collective rudeness and lack of consideration and absence of personal responsibility £16 billion of revenue per year - no wonder so many restaurants are forced to close.

  The entire West Midlands (which I define as North Gloucestershire, Herefordshire, Shropshire, Staffordshire, Warwickshire, West Midlands county and Worcestershire but for some unknown reason also includes, according to the Guide, one restaurant across the border in Wales) this year has a combined total of 60 entries (east London alone has 69!). They are all listed below together with their  ‘cooking scores’. Birmingham has a total of 11 restaurants listed (just 16% of the total for east London which is a slightly frightening statistic). There are 2 new entries for Birmingham - Opheem and The Oyster Club - and no removals so that Birmingham’s total returns to its 2018 level. In contrast Manchester, famed for having no Michelin starred restaurants at all, has 20 restaurants listed in The Good Food Guide - it’s astonishing what being home to a large number of BBC luvvies can do for a city’s restaurant ratings.

  There must be something deeply personal that has resulted in Alex Claridge’s The Wilderness being omitted from the Birmingham list again or perhaps Good Food Guide experts don’t like black, the overwhelming colour of Claridge’s restaurant’s rather characteristic decor. I’m sure Alex Claridge must be fuming about once more being considered to not serve ‘Good Food’.

  One of the problems for me with this diner’s guide is its constant need to drop into excruciating purple prose. Thus we have in a review of Salt in Stratford upon Avon, “Paul Foster’s venue sits in the heart of this heritage-laden town, not far from the school where it’s most famous scion learned his grammar.” Which could easily be, “Salt is situated centrally across the road from the school at which Shakespeare was a pupil”. And again, about Purnell’s, “In a handsome red-brick building just off the city centre, comfortingly removed from the hubbub of the Bullring, a diverting space has been created with fractals, stripes and filigree light globes positively designed to divide opinion.” Why the Bullring is mentioned is a mystery as it’s quite a distance from Cornwall Street where Purnell’s is situated and when sitting in Purnell’s I have never once thought, “I’m so pleased that the restaurant is removed from the hubbub of The Bullring”.

  The Guide is an old-fashioned, upper middle class, Remoanerist sort of publication and is not to be trusted so much as it thinks it should be. Deep down it struggles to cope with the new and fails to recognise the failures of its long-term favourites. It is taken by the belief that if you spend a lot of money then what you’re buying must be worthwhile if not outstanding. 

  But it is a part of the recording of British food history and if one buys it on those grounds then it is worthwhile.

Birmingham - Adam’s - 7 

                         Carters Of Moseley - 6

                         Folium - 4

                         Harborne Kitchen - 6

                         Lasan - 3

                         Opheem - 4

                         Opus - 2

                         The Oyster Club - 2

                         Purnell’s - 6 

                         Purnell's Bistro - 2

                         Simpsons - 6

West Midlands -  Hampton in Arden - Peel’s Restaurant - 5

Gloucestershire (north) -

                             Arlingham - The Old Passage - 2

                             Barnsley - The Potanger - 3 

                                               The Village Pub - 2

                              Cheltenham - Le Champignon Sauvage - 8

                                                     Koj - 2

                                                     Lumière - 5

                                                     Purslane - 5 

                              Eldersfield - The Butchers Arms - 4

                              Northleach - The Wheatsheaf Inn - 2

                              Painswick - The Painswick - 4

                              Paxford - The Churchill Arms - 2

                              Selsey - The Bell Inn- 1

                              Southrop - The Swan at Southrop - 2

                              Stow-on-the-Wold - The Old Butchers - - (local gem)

                              Stroud - The Woolpack Inn - - (local gem)

                              Upper Slaughter - The Atrium - 6

                              Winchcombe - 5 North Street - 5 

                                                      Wesley House - 1

Herefordshire -   Aymestrey - The Riverside at Aymestrey - 3

                             Hay-on-Wye (Yes, I know it’s in Wales but the editor of Good Food Guide insists  on listing it in Herefordshire) - Richard Booth’s Bookshop Cafe - - (local gem)

                             Hereford - The Bookshop - 1

                                               Madam & Adam - - (local gem)

                              Pembridge - The Cider Barn - - (local gem)

                              Titley - The Stagg Inn - 4

                              Upper Sapey - The Baiting House - 1

Shropshire -        Ludlow - Forelles at Fishmore Hall - 1

                                             Mortimers - 3

                                             Old Downton Lodge - 2

                                             CSONS at The Green Cafe - - (local gem)

                             Oswestry - Sebastians - 2

                             Shrewsbury - The Walrus - - (readers recommend)

Staffordshire -    Alstonefield - The George - 3

                             Burton upon Trent - 99 Station Street - 1

                             Ellastone - The Duncombe Arms - - (local gem)

Warwickshire -   Henley-in-Arden - Cheal’s Of Henley - 5

                             Kenilworth - The Cross At Kenilworth - 6

                             Shipston-On-Stour - El Cafe - - (readers recommend)

                             Stratford-upon-Avon - No.9 Church St - 2

                                                                  Salt - 6

                                                                  The Woodsman - 4

                              Warwick - Tailors - 3

                              Whatcote - The Royal Oak - 5

Worcestershire - Broadway - The Lygon Arms - 2 

                                                  Russell’s of Broadway - 3

                             Ombersley - The Venture In - 2

                             Pershore House - Belle House - 3

                             Stoke Bliss - Pensons - 6 (new entry)

                             Welland - The Inn at Welland - 1