Having dined out two nights consecutively at functions associated with the Ludlow Food Festival I chose to have Sunday evening dinner at the hotel which I had made my home for three days, the early 17th century The Feathers where the dining room was once known as The Richard III restaurant and now, I think, is called the Plume at The Feathers. I also think that the present Head Chef is Darren Shaw who was appointed to the post in April 2024. Shortly after his appointment, the AA Guide awarded the restaurant one rosette and this time last year I gave it a rating of 4 moons (Blog 507). So how was it this year?
I started with a bowl of potato and leek soup. I could discern a mild flavour of leek coming from the reasonably smooth soup but the overall dish was lacking in any punch of flavour - it needed more oomph to set it on the road to being an effective dish. Next I had some very nicely cooked, lean and tender roast beef but once more the meat lacked flavour - a more adventurous approach to seasoning might have paid off. The roast potatoes, though not particularly crispy, were otherwise well-cooked, looked appealing and tasted as though they had been cooked in beef fat which certainly gave them a pleasing flavour. There was an array of vegetables - the carrots were certainly overcooked and had an odd texture and for some, the broccoli would have been overcooked though I found it pleasingly tender. The green beans were, for me, perfectly cooked as were the appealing peas which were quite the nicest peas I have been served this year. The dish was brought together by a reasonably successful gravy. The Yorkshire pudding was fairly standard but edible.
My chocolate and orange marquise was not a success. The marquise itself was rich in the flavour of chocolate and had a nice consistency but there was no hit of orange and an orange gel smeared on the plate was inadequate in amount to do anything more than give the slightest hint of orange. The chantilly on top lacked flavour and a prettily patterned tuile which should have set off the dish, lacked any crispiness, indeed it was more soggy than crisp, to a degree that it was unpleasant and inedible.
I ordered two glasses of wine - a thoroughly enjoyable New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc which I had with my soup and an Argentinian Malbec which I’m sure would have gone very well with my beef had it ever appeared at the end of the journey from bar to dining table. The serving staff were very pleasant despite the permanently delayed Malbec.
The Feathers restaurant presently is at best middling and might possibly be described as mediocre though, it must be said, the prices are unpunishing on the diner’s pocket.
 |
| Head Chef of The Feathers, Darren Shaw. |
13 September 2026
Rating:- 🌛🌛.
