538. Raj Doot.

  An old friend who had been born in Birmingham but who had lived in New Zealand for twenty or so years, was visiting and the question was, “Where to have dinner?”, given that it was a Monday evening and that you can’t get a good curry in New Zealand (you can’t get a good anything and I know, I’ve visited that back of beyond several times though Michelin is about to deliver a new guide for dining out in the Antipodes but I expect that the New Zealand section will necessarily be little shorter than that for Dudley in the British Guide). D. had a Birmingham-born individual’s taste for a fine curry and I knew just the place to take him - venerable and colourful and now, even historic, Raj Doot, in the Jewellery Quarter. 

  On a cold late winter evening, Raj Doot lived up to my expectations. It was warm and comforting and comfortable and had better decor with an air of drama to it than any put up by the RSC at Stratford in the past few years. We sat with our drinks feeling cosy and expectant as we waited to be guided to our table. Poppadoms with chutneys to begin and then starters.

  I enjoyed crispy, sweet onion bhajees served with a mildly spicy mint sauce while my dining companion indulged himself with gingered lamb chops which brought him much pleasure.

    As a main, I chose chicken bhuna because of my infatuation with fenugreek - this was very good, tasty, rich and full-bodied, its sauce thick and delicious and the meat tender and nicely cooked. My dining companion enjoyed his dish of rogan josh. We enjoyed the cloud like, happily sweet Peshwari naan and a simple dish of rice.

  Asha’s may appeal to Hollywood film stars but I prefer the old fashioned, glorious character and food of Raj Doot. Sixty years of serving happy curry lovers who enjoy style and personality as an accompaniment to classic Anglo-Indian food. Here’s to another sixty.

Rating:- 🌞

537. Sunday Lunch At Samo.

 

  Chef Elliot Brown opened his restaurant Samo in March 2026 in the Great Western Arcade. The location had previously been home to Land before it moved a short distance along the arcade and prior to Land’s occupation of the site it had been home to Bistro 1847 where once in his salad days Alex Claridge had served vegetarian dishes. Brown has a distinguished curriculum vitae, having trained at the Hotel du Vin and then at Simpsons when Leo Kattou, now at the Bower House in Shipston on Stour, was Head Chef there. Subsequently Brown worked at Aktar Islam’s short-lived Legna and then at Tierra Tacos and Trentina both in the Jewellery Quarter and then he had gained experience with Italian-style food at Tropea in Harborne. Brown’s intended style is assisted in the kitchen by Greg Shephard, his sous chef.

  Brown’s intended style for his own restaurant was a wise choice - ‘modern bistro’ - with an emphasis on the seasonality of ingredients. My first visit to the new restaurant was for the first Sunday lunch to be served there and it proved to be a very pleasing experience. It really was very good. I was the first diner to arrive for the particular sitting and I received a pleasing welcome and then sat back to enjoy an anis aperitif while the other diners trickled in. The middle class on a Sunday don’t like to hurry themselves.

  As starter I chose an impressive-looking and tasty prawn cocktail surmounted by two king prawns looking accusingly with their dead eyes from the rim of the dish. There was a very generous portion of little shrimps and the Marie Rose was well made.

  But of course I was there for the roast beef and out it came - tender, pink and blushing. There came with it a fine crusty Yorkshire pudding and a banquet of vegetables - very edible beef dripping roast potatoes and slices of roast turnip, gorgeously - yes, gorgeously, that’s the very word, buttery mashed swede with creamed leeks and cabbage and, as an extra, cauliflower in cheese sauce. More vegetables than I could manage but I made a good attempt and there really wasn’t very much left on my plate by the time I surrendered it to be taken to the dish washer, be it machine or human.

    I was kidnapped by the lovely creamy rice pudding with compôte when I read the dessert menu and my choice was fully vindicated by the intense enjoyment it gave. Modern bistro had rendered classic, fine English Sunday lunch. And I had been seated at a window table and what a relaxing time I had watching the Sunday afternoon shoppers pass by. Brilliant!

Elliot Brown & Greg Shephard

Rating:- 🌛🌛🌛🌛

29 March 2026.

533. Albatross Death Cult.

 

  I made my reservation for the first service after the announcement of the 2026 Michelin Great Britain and Ireland awards in anticipation of Albatross Death Cult being awarded a Michelin star which it well deserves but did not receive. In all events its mother ship, The Wilderness, was the winner of a richly deserved Michelin star instead so Alex Claridge had something to smile about if he could find the necessary facial muscles to carry out such an act. I imagine he did while celebrating his success in Dublin where the award ceremony had been held.

  I was charmingly shown to my place at the counter as I have got used to during my now several visits to the restaurant which Grace Dent now famously described as one of the top five seafood restaurants in Britain. The maestro of the ADC kitchen, Oliver Grieve, was in place with one assistant preparing the first nibbles of the forthcoming meal and I ordered a pleasing cocktail to get myself started.

  The menu mixed old favourites with new additions. From the former group were the oyster cream amuse bouche and the signature mussels with a broth of n’duja and aflame with pepper - this dish seemed to have evolved to its ultimate state of existence - and the divine sushi rice ice cream with nori wafers. The world will not end while these three classics continue to survive.

  There were of course other wonders - Ollie Grieve was at the top of his game - the trout with dill and wasabi, the gorgeous miniature crumpet on which crab was being serenaded by apple, perfectly cooked cod partnered with artichoke and hazelnut, brill partnered by punchy smoked eel and trout once more but this time partnered with lobster. 

  The dessert brought to the table nicely poached seasonal rhubarb holding hands with crème fraiche and all shook up by Szechuan pepper. And I too felt shook up as Oliver told me that this was to be his penultimate service at ADC as he prepared to depart for Woven by Adam Smith at the Dorchester Collection. It’s hard to imagine what will happen at ADC next but Ollie Grieve is a very talented young chef and he is surely wise to expand his experience at this stage of his career. Let us hope that for the gourmands of Birmingham, it is more a question of au revoir rather than adieu.

Rating:- 🌞🌞🌞.

11 February 2026.

532. Vieni.

  Vieni had only just opened when I lunched there. It is a fresh-looking comfortable space, cheerful and spirit-lifting with the service being  enthusiasastc and friendly. The restaurant had come about as a result of another partnership of two accomplished young women - chef Angelina Adamo and front of house manager, Charlotte Carter. The style of food is Sicilian and is generously portioned and rustic and the name of the restaurant in Italian means ‘Come here’ which seems fair enough.

  To tickle up my tastebuds I ordered what turned out to be a disappointingly small portioned plate of  salami and pecorino. True, the salami was delicious but a little more of it would have been very pleasing. Then on to the starter of wild garlic mozzarella arancini. This was very good, nicely sized, the coating enjoyably crispy and the contents tasty, all enhanced by a robust sauce. 

  I gasped when presented with my remarkable main - I had chosen Sicilian fennel sausage served in a bowl with stew of butter beans, soffrito and cavalo nero and a side dish of Jersey royals which were unnecessarily roasted. The great coil of sausage was far too much for one old bloke and suffice it to say that Lucy The Labrador was happy to receive a doggy bag of some of it on my return home. It was a great pleasure to eat and that went for the both of us.

  The individual zabaglione was excellent and rounded off an enjoyable meal. There’s so much going on in the Jewellery Quarter foodwise that one feels one ought to move there but the dog would disagree as someone thought it was a good idea to have no green space in the area apart from the churchyard of St Paul’s and the cemeteries but then again it was originally built as a place where people worked for a living rather than sitting around doing nothing of any particular use except of course those restaurateurs who work hard and produce something of great worth - the Jewellery Quarter dining scene.

• 

• Angelina Adamo

Charlotte Carter

 

Rating:- 🌛🌛🌛🌛

13 February 2026.