If ever there is a restaurant deserving of elevation to join the constellations of the night skies - that is - totally deserving of the Michelin inspectors awarding it one of the Michelin Guide’s much sought after macarons - stars to the likes of you and me - then it is Alex Claridge’s Albatross Death Cult (previously much reported on in various editions of this blog) along with Ben Tesh’s Folium and Stirchley’s not at all well-kept secret, Riverine Rabbit or Rabbit, whichever one prefers.
I returned for yet another visit as the first month of the year drew to a close, the early evening being relatively mild and precipitation-free which was a relief as I ambled my way from Victoria Square down the depressing decay of Newhall Street as it trails inexorably to the edge of the Jewellery Quarter. No introductions, just a relaxed, friendly greeting and a “Long-time no see” from Head Chef Piotr Szpak which is his familiar carch phrase though it isn’t necessarily an accurate observation on his part. But it raises a smile as does bumping into a familiar old gourmand acquaintance of mine, a denizen of the Jewellery Quarter, and we sat side by side updating each other on our most recent dining experiences. This particular evening we were both there, with twelve other diners, for a dinner of mostly familiar dishes paired with shots of various types of sake, which Camilla Bonnannini, ADC’s wine manager, had curated following her recent visit to Japan. In the latter part of 2024 Bonnannini had paired with Oliver Grieve, the other principle Chef at ADC, to enter the Gosset Matchmakers competition and had duly won the contest with a dish of quail, nam jim and carrot prepared in three ways as well as a dish prepared from smoked eel caramelised in brown butter and finished with a blow torch both dishes paired with drinks by Bonnannini.
The evening began with a truly glorious oyster cream served in an oyster shell and paired most perfectly with a delicious Kodakara yuzu liquor (Camilla was already showing her mettle); then familiar and delightful canapés in the form of a perfectly crispy croustade full of tasty trout roe, the popping in the mouth by its little proteinaceous bubbles giving a joyous child-like pleasure of which I felt mildly ashamed and delightedly happy, both at the same time, the pleasure being added to by the bite of wasabi. The equally crispy container of fine salmon with tongue tingling jalapeño and soothing cream cheese was equally pleasurable.
Next there was the always remarkable and sublime crab and apple dish which I have previously recorded and on this occasion forgot to photograph and this was paired with the hit of the evening - the Tatenokawa ‘Three Peaks’ 33% which was very admirable and brought on a feeling of soothed mellowness and who can ask for anything more?
Perhaps the best dish of the evening - the Emperor among kings - was the fabulous dish - mussels with black pepper and Iberico. This has been perfected by the inclusion of more Iberico which has raised it to a divine status. Utterly delicious. The mussels were of admirable texture and the meaty salinity was unsurpassed.
The mussels were matched with an interesting fugu (pufferfish) sake which had been bottled complete with pufferfish fins rather as one might find cactus in mescal but the next course, the robust flavoured red prawn with prawn head sauce and this time with pumpkin, was accompanied by a limited edition Nigorizake (cloudy rice wine which retains some of the rice particles in it).
The last of the savoury dishes was again familiar but also immaculate - fine hamachi (yellow fin tuna) with sesame - unendingly delicious. There was nothing to do but bathe my brain’s contentment centre in the fabulous sushi rice ice cream with caramel and nori tuile - a last, friendly umami assault before the last bugle call of the taste blitz rendered by a red grapefruit juice jelly petit four.
I have made a reservation to dine again at ADC for the first service after the Michelin Awards ceremony. I can not see why ADC - brilliant and perfect - should not receive a star If it were in London it certainly would. For the present at least -
Rating:- 🌞🌞🌞
30 January 2025.
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