Dining out is theatre and so the opening of Alex Claridge’s Albatross Death Cult in the wonderful old and beautifully renovated factory building in Newhall Square - previously home to Atelier and Counter - was rather like the opening of a new play - full of anticipation, leading men and leading women, spectacle, perfection of delivery, special effects, a keen audience holding its collective breath. And the performance did not let artistes and diners down.
Thirteen dishes proved to be a number not at all unlucky. Alex Claridge was there with Marius Gedminas and the sous chefs meticulously plating up for the fourteen diners all perched around a wide aluminium-shiny counter - benign, empathetic diners expecting the best, the exciting, the delicious and they had little to complain about. Two fine little amuses gueles to start - a tart and a croustade showcasing hits of prawn and the gorgeous and unadulterated flavour of chalk stream trout served with its roe.
An indisputable highlight was the fabulously textured and tasty mackeral sashimi of with caviar neatly followed up by presentations of apple and elderflower with crab and another gorgeous croustade of prawn head over a layer of the freshest, zingiest, most seasonal peas I have been presented with for years (ever since I gathered them in myself as a youth from grandfather’s allotments). These were very fine ingredients presented with the quiet passion which Alex Claridge exudes and the punters were having a ball.
Oyster was next, simply prepared with a splash of vinegar and the pleasure of peach, and then sushi in the form of hamachi - Japanese amberjack - emboldened by sesame. Then firm lobster with a soup rich in the flavours of Siam and next quite superb mussels - the best I can remember being served in many a moon- enlivened with black pepper and the addition of Iberico.
The fresh purity of Chalkstream trout was revisited next with the strong, hot, sour flavour of tom yum - so very good - and then an admirably light dessert of sushi rice cream and to end memorably - a tiny but celestially wondrous segment of Hokkaido melon which, Alex told us might cost £60 to £80 per fruit and when one sampled it one could see - or perhaps - taste why.
I had wisely already made further reservations for this astonishing restaurant in the following weeks before some critic or the other popped up to rave about it and ensure that it is then booked months ahead. Indeed, I returned the following week to find the menu to contain the same dishes, perhaps even more slightly perfected than on opening night apart from the sad disappearance of the Hokkaido melon though it was replaced by a lovely cherry dessert. I can be smug that I am already one of the few, the happy few, who have dined at ADC and must wonder if this where Alex Claridge will finally find the Michelin star he has so long deserved.
Rating:- 🌞🌞🌞.
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