363. Wilderness-Highland Park Collaboration

 

  Back in Mercia after quick side trips to Bristol and then to London to see Kenneth Branagh in his own production of King Lear - far too youthful-looking even if he is 62 (qualifies to be called an Old Bloke); now McKellan, he was a Lear (“The oldest have borne the most and those who are young will never witness so much or live as long”) - and out to dinner at a collaboration of The Wilderness with Alex Claridge in the driving seat in the kitchen and Highland Park Scotch whisky which is brave as whisky is not my favourite tipple, by quite a long distance.

  First the drinks - thoroughly enjoyable whisky-based cocktails with every course. The whisky, from, I think Orkney’s only commercial distillery, was moderately flavoured, any peatiness being pleasingly restrained and very quaffable. Perhaps this meal has helped me, at 70, to discover in my dotage a taste for the whisky just as middle age, at 50, instilled in me a desire, even a lust, to consume Brussels sprouts at Christmas and, in moderation, on other occasions as well.

  But, to be candid, I wasn’t there for the drink, I was there to see what glories Alex Claridge had magicked up in well-ordered kitchen.

  To start, an amuse in the form of a tasty choux bun containing Tamworth pork with onion and a cascade of truffle. Then a starter of spot-on Chalkstream trout with a lovely ginger dashi and beautifully crispy fish skin.

  The main was Highland Wagyu, delicately cooked and presented with truffled yolk, potato, bathed in dashi  and more truffle than was dreamt of in your philosophy, Horatio.

  The highlight however, putting aside trendy truffle, Chalkstream trout and Wagyu, was a dramatically beautiful, glistening piece of halibut, cooked with pin point accuracy, in oyster sauce and with smooth and creamily gorgeous celeriac purée. A dish to remember.

  The dessert, which I sadly forgot to photograph, was a lovely, well-executed piece of pastry in the form of cacao tart. There was also an end of meal whisky tasting which rounded the evening off nicely (along with a newly-discovered colour variety of the Wilderness Frog) and girded one’s loins for the journey home on a miserable, dark autumn night. The oldest, indeed, have borne the most.