Dinner at Purnell’s and this time the Full Monty - that is the - the Tasting Menu. Out come, triumphantly, the happily returning black potatoes (though sadly on this occasion I did not get the bite of lemon which which these little gems have previously distinguished themselves), the edible charcoal (so silly and so delightful), all married together with the crowd pleasing chorizo dip. Then that cheeky little number, emotions of soixante dix, the now almost infamous play on cheese and pineapple on a stick but now exuberantly served in steaming clouds hence giving a nice synergy, since the final dish, another old friend, mint choccy chip, will also appear with swirling crowds around it. Out too comes Purnell’s usually sensational pain campagne but oh dear, what’s happened it’s too salty but not as bad as the butter which accompanies it which has far too much salt incorporated in it making it taste like the Dead Sea. Maître D’Hotel Adrien sympathetically brings me a new dish of butter. But what’s going, has a salt fiend invaded the kitchen?
Then down to the serious business. Firstly a superlative dish of ceviche of sea bream with textures of radish and orange and yuzu kosho. This is an immaculate dish, an absolute scene stealer. The beauty of its visual appearance is more than surpassed by the gorgeousness of its flavours and textures. One of the best dishes I’ve had so far in 2023.
Adrien allowed me at this point to substitute the haddock and egg, which is not my favourite of Purnell’s classics, for the stupendous beef carpaccio, served with red wine braised octopus, sweet and sour onions and the enigmatic beefy ‘OXO’ cube. This is another very fine dish in the Purnell’s repertoire.
Then the fish course - a fine piece of Scottish halibut served with a silky champagne and mussel velouté and a nice helping of caviar but no - it cannot be - the Salt Fiend has struck again and assaulted the halibut in a most overwhelming manner. What is going on the kitchen this evening? What a pity, this would have been a lovely dish apart from the overdose of salt.
Fortunately the Salt Fiend had been expelled when the main course was being prepared and a delicious plate of Wiltshire downlands lamb accompanied by a little tart (of fine pastry) of morels and chopped asparagus makes it appearance with the perfect accompanying flavours of mint and redcurrant. The portion of meat is generous and tender as a plate of butter.
The final straight has been entered - along comes 10 - 10 - 10 itself, the burnt English egg custard surprise served in an egg gatherer’s basket but a surprise it is indeed. Under the creme caramel lurks a layer of quite bitter caramelised apple and muscavado severely assaulted by armagnac - this is the least enjoyable version of 10 - 10 - 10 with which I have ever been presented; the accompanying Yorkshire rhubarb is well cooked but the cake under it is not that great. Well, I suppose there must be experimentation but on the whole this dessert was nor great. I am too full to have my helping of mint choccy chip but enjoy the three petits fours that accompany coffee.
I enjoyed my meal on the whole as I always do at Purnell’s but I was forced to wonder if my egg surprise had been prepared using a curate’s egg.
Rating:- 🌞
A few evenings later, a return to Purnell’s Plates. This is now very busy. The staff are welcoming and a fine Margarita was served (a surprising choice on my part, you might think, after my moaning above about the actions of a Salt Fiend at Purnell’s).
I chose four small plates which seems to be about right for an old bloke whose “eyes are bigger than his belly”, as my dear old Gran used to say. Inevitably I chose patatas bravas which might make up part of my last meal were I given a choice prior to the bell that tolls, thoroughly enjoyable cheese croquettes - enjoyably crispy and as cheese-flavoured as any man might wish, a laudable grilled octopus dish (well, a grilled octopus tentacle dish, at least) with lovely meaty flesh and afitas de pollo, said to be chicken wings with lime and paprika but, while being mildly spicy and joyously sticky, overwhelmingly sweet, indeed shockingly so, that, especially as this was the last dish served, so that I rather felt I was eating my first ever dessert containing chicken. This would have been a beautifully self-indulgent dish by itself but it did not fit in at all with the rest of the menu and really needs to be rethought unless it is indeed to be added to the rather scant dessert section of the menu.
Even so, it was a meal generally enjoyed at a reasonable price. What else can one hope for?
Rating:- 🌛🌛🌛
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