242. The French Pantry

 

 

 Before moving on to report on my visit to Ludlow’s Michelin-listed The French Pantry, I can not resist mentioning having a second enjoyable dinner in Fishmore Hall’s bistro restaurant. I had so enjoyed my meal there the previous evening (see Blog 241) I resolved to eat there again instead of choosing from the à la carte menu in Forelles and quaffing a Monkey 47 and tonic I set about consuming a highly enjoyable simple but luxuriously glistening and deeply tasty chicken liver pâté enhanced by a little blob of English mustard and tiny sweet pickles together making a witty deconstructed piccalilli.

  I then moved on to braised beef shin served with creamed garlic potatoes, well-cooked celeriac fondant and pleasing braised red cabbage. The beef was satisfactory, a little dry, but the nicely unctuous sauce and red cabbage helped it along. Finally, for dessert, I had an old favourite, an absolute gem - coconut panna cotta, tiny cubes of pineapple, toasted coconut and a wondrous basil ice cream. There was much to be happy about in this meal.

  And so to lunch the next day at The French Pantry. Outside woodwork painted a soothing light blue and inside a French bistro nicely recreated complete, as everyone who reports on the place just has to mention, the tables covered with red chequered tablecloths and blue padded seating along one wall, all very Tricolore and cosily delightful. A quiet and pleasant welcome and I was seated in a very comfortable padded chair which would have been lovely to snooze in postprandially. Rustic and yet not rustic to judge by my starter of robustly flavoured gateau of crab (actually a mousse sitting in a tasty, buttercup-yellow saffron beurre blanc), beautifully crafted and, for the crab lover, highly desirable and delicious..

  Then a stupendous confit duck leg served with prunes, garlic sautéed potatoes and prune sauce. Crispy skin, succulent duck meat, the sweetness of the prunes and the sauce, the perfection of the potatoes, total Gallic delightfulness. 

  And then classic tarte tatin. No messing about with daft fruits - good, down-to-earth perfectly cooked apple placed mosaic-fashion on a pleasing pastry with lots of gooey unctiousness and helped along with a simple vanilla ice cream.

  With food like this you have to wonder what revolting French peasants were moaning about back in 1789.

  A trip to Ludlow in the future will not be complete without a visit to The French Pantry. It’s extremely good value, serves delicious food and has just the right atmosphere.