223. Cheal’s of Henley.

 

  I visited Cheal’s Of Henley in 2016 quite soon after it was first opened by Matt Cheal. Regrettably, getting to Henley in Arden by public transport from my home, though not too difficult, is still not an enterprise I take on too lightly. But as I was staying in Stratford Upon Avon it occurred to me that a journey from that town might be an altogether more attractive prospect so that I was finally able to travel there for a long overdue second visit.

  How pleased am I that I did. Sitting on Henley’s High Street, opposite where work is underway on Glynn Purnell’s soon-to-open, much publicised pub, The Mount, Cheal’s is traditional on the outside and calm, modern and smart on the inside. The front of house staff lead by Liam Roe go about their business unimpeachably and it takes a matter of moments to feel perfectly comfortable at one’s table.

  But in the end it’s all about the food. Cheal has achieved what few other chefs manage to do - a multi-course (very satisfactorily priced) tasting menu (I was there for lunch) with not a single element as a cause for disappointment. This was quite simply the best tasting menu I have had for a long time. Out in Henley, Cheal’s may be slightly overlooked but if the cooking in this establishment does not deserve a higher grade of recognition from the dining guides, particularly that published by the French tyre people, then I’m Vladimir Putin’s uncle and I’m not.

  The simple amuse gueule in the form of a little beignet, topped with a nipple of Worcestershire sauce,  erupts with explosive cheesiness and lights the way to course after course of delight. A second amuse full of celestial espuma, so light only angels could have sat on it, was rapidly followed by 2 excellent breads including a pleasingly crisply coated  sourdough. And with the informalities out of the way, on came the starter. This was well flavoured gin and citrus-cured salmon perfectly complemented by pieces of various beetroots and almost glowing lime green wasabi forming a protective ring around the edge of the plate. An excellent dish and very pretty; I was not even annoyed, unusually, by the pansy flowers.

 Next, crispy duck yolk. One of those dishes I would never choose if it were not part of a tasting menu. But there it was and so I would have to force myself to eat it. And the light burst through the clouds on the road to Damascus. This was a remarkably delicious dish. The egg coating really was crispy, the crumbs cooked to a pretty light gold and the egg just the right consistency for me. Served, as it was, with pieces of highly flavoured chicken wing and leeks and winter truffle, I felt that this was by far and a way, the best serving of an egg a chef has ever cooked for me. A great food memory. 

  The fish course arrived. Perfectly cooked turbot, its lovely flesh glistening and its flavour delightful. And crispy fried mussels - I’ve had some great mussels recently, dishes at The Wilderness and Peel’s come to mind - but what great fun these mussels were and so tasty. The dish was served with salsify and apt spinach and a fabulous mussel and saffron sauce. 

  And then the centre piece - two pieces of finely cooked Gloucestershire venison, not quite the tastiest I’ve had this year but not far off, served with ‘humble pie’ (a lovely gem made from excellent pastry packed with delicious slow cooked meat), celeriac, pieces of cooked celery and everything punctuated brilliantly by sweet red grapes with a Madeira and black garlic sauce. This was proving to be a masterly meal.

    How then could it be rounded off with a dessert as memorable as the previous courses? Answer:- a wondrous, towering, cloud-light banana soufflé opened up by the Maître d’ on serving and filled with rum caramel and a generous serving of chocolate ice cream. Many otherwise fine chefs fail to round off their tasting menus with a dessert, technically at least, that matches their savoury dishes. Not so at Cheal’s. Clearly the dessert is as important there as that which has gone before. French tyre people, you really need to think about this.

  The tasting menu so pleasingly includes just one dessert. How wise. How could you top the soufflé? I am a confirmed one pudding man and Matt Cheal seems to have really grasped what so few others have realised - serve up one magnificent dessert and your job is done. Apart - that is - from choosing some fine, interesting and enjoyable cheeses for your guests and serving them sensibly, all as part of the tasting menu. 

  This was an outstanding meal. I do not intend that it will be another six years before I return.

  I crossed the road to catch the bus back to Stratford.and looked at the tourist information notice board which outlined the attractions of Henley in Arden including the Mount, an ancient monument including the earthwork remains of Beaudesert Castle (of course Cheal’s soufflé had been a very beau dessert), after which Purnell has named his pub. I had a snoop at the preparations going on there and congratulated myself on having a reservation there for the first day that it will becopen to the public. But I also congratulated myself on having the good sense at last to come back to dine at Cheal’s.