194. Upstairs To The Stars.

 

 

 It is not unknown for a restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star within months of opening and, though I do not normally feel I should delve into the strange psyche of Michelin inspectors, I can’t help predicting that Upstairs by Tom Shepherd in Lichfield may just be the place to do it. In fact I’m wondering whether this could be the best restaurant in the West Midlands (and I’ve been around this year) at present.

  On a repeat lunchtime visit to this exceptional restaurant (see Blog 188) I sat purring and groaning in delight at the culinary pleasures I consumed - no, basked in would be more apt - there. On my last visit I pleasured myself with the tasting menu but on this second visit I opted for the very modestly priced lunchtime menu of just 3 courses plus amuse gueule and bread. I was drawn to it by the promise of baked plaice, a fish of such loveliness that I could not resist.

  The starter of braised suckling pork belly with celeriac, apple and salsa verde was very fine, finished off as it was by a full bodied, bracing, gorgeously powerfully flavoured dashi broth. I have long grown wearied by the dubious delights of pork belly but few chefs whose establishments I have visited  have produced such an excellent dish as this from that once humble ingredient. The accompanying ingredients were spot on in flavour and texture. 

  And so to the main event. I spent more time purring in delight than I did in the eating. Roasted plaice with a little cylinder of butternut squash, pretty green and purple kale of an utterly optimal texture and, note, an exquisite Bourdelaise sauce (note it was plaice not à la Bourdelaise but with the sauce of that name - what a jolly jape, clever Tom Shepherd). Exceptionally beautifully cooked plaice with great accompaniments, a fabulous dish and all for the casual luncher. 

  

I was too overwhelmed with pleasure to remember to photograph the perfectly judged yoghurt parfait with blackberries, a blackberry ice cream and mint but it looked pretty and it was a delight to eat. 

  

 

 Of course Tom Shepherd is no stranger to Michelin stars as Adam’s continued to hold its one star while he was Head Chef there. The excellence of his food is also evidenced by the recognition this week by the revived Good Food Guide published in its online The Good Food Weekly. But as chefs and punters alike really know, it’s Michelin’s judgement that really counts.

  One final question (repeated from a previous Blog but now asked less whimsically) - is Lichfield the new Ludlow?