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| Ludford Bridge and Charlton Arms by Larry Turner |
And so, to Ludlow town itself and at a spot where Lancastrians and Yorkists (I don’t mean puddings and hot pots) slew each other in the early stages of the Wars of the Roses) on Ludford Bridge where there is also sited the Michelin plated Charlton Arms, whither I repaired for lunch. It’s owner, Cedric Bosi, originally came to Ludlow from Lyon to work with his brother, Claude, when the latter owned the Michelin-starred Hibiscus, where Glyn Purnell worked for a few months. Claude eventually relocated Hibiscus to London but Cedric had already discovered an interest in the customs and traditions of the English pub and had opened one, the Bell Inn in Yarpole in Herefordshire which won a Michelin Bib Gourmand. When Claude moved Hibiscus from Ludlow to London in 2010 Cedric moved with his brother and together they opened two pubs in the London area but Cedric and his wife Amy returned to Ludlow in the second half of 2015 and opened the Charlton Arms.
It is an attractive setting, located at one end of Ludford Bridge with a view over the broad river Teme at a point where the drop down to the river is almost a ravine. The location certainly sets the pub up for a Bib Gourmand - which it was awarded in 2018. The decor is delightful - slightly eccentric - with light bursting in from windows on two sides.
The menu is classic English rustic with a twist. Cedric Bosi was doing us all a great favour when he developed the English pub as a fascination. The food is unashamedly pub food but fine pub food.
I chose the ‘House apéritif’ , a pastis, which arrived looking like it might glow in the dark and potent with aniseed. To start I chose spiced spring lamb Scotch egg with soothing tzatziki. This was a generously portioned Scotch egg, a crunchy golden coat surrounding the bite of the spices mixed with the lamb. It was almost a tasty, filling meal in itself.
For the main course I chose, and was served, fine dressed crab with excellent, moderately thin chips and a ‘Lane cottage salad’ with ribbons of carrot, crunchy fennel (more aniseed but who’s complaining?) onions, peppery radishes and leaves and a perfectly matched dressing. Summer on a plate and indeed the sun had burst out across Ludlow after three days of indecisive clouds.
I was as full as an old bloke can be before he begins to feel uncomfortable but I saw the peach cheesecake with coconut ice cream being delivered to another table and I had to give way to my base gluttony which was good as it was a very enjoyable dessert and light with very coconuty coconut icecream and very peachy peach cheesecake.
A very enjoyable lunch. No wonder that Michelin has honoured the place. A revisit is on the cards.
Meanwhile back in Birmingham, the previously Michelin-plated Opus may have died an unnatural death from a surfeit of lockdowns, unending street works and Birmingham City Council's poisonous Clean Air Zone but Ann Tonks and Irene Allan who founded, and subsequently closed, Opus in Cornwall street are preparing to start a new chapter in their restaurant careers by opening a new establishment, aptly to be called Chapter, in Edgbaston on the Calthorpe Estate. The Opus Head Chef, Ben Ternant, will join them by leading the kitchen staff at the new 65 seater restaurant which should open in early December 2021, a date coinciding with the opening of the Hagley Road extension of the Midlands Metro tramline putting the restaurant just about five minutes journey time from the city centre.
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| Irene Allan and Ann Tonks |
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| Ben Ternant, Head Chef at Opus and Chapter |
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