In one and a quarter hours of excruciating French accents and mangled English words and more film of Paris and New York than of London, the 2021 Michelin stars winners were announced in an online broadcast on YouTube that left Davina McCall looking horribly socially isolated but generally it all seemed a big improvement compared with the last two online-broadcast Michelin reveals (I prefer to say “reveals” as the official title word, “revelation” makes me think too much of the apocalypse which our restaurant industry may well be facing) with all the toe-curling embarrassment they brought with them.
As is so often the case Birmingham and the West Midlands were largely ignored by the Michelin inspectors, currently obsessed with restaurants in Ireland, chefs with French accents, expensive London-based sushi restaurants and seemingly rarely finding their way out of London and the Home Counties apart from boarding planes heading for Dublin. There was an interestingly large proportion of Irish sponsors of these awards which may tell us something.
We all know the Michelin awards are a waste of time for our region of England but they are important because people like to say, for no obvious reason, that they’ve been to a starred restaurant and that helps to make a chef’s reputation and often ensures his restaurant’s viability. In this Blog additionally they do at least provide a record of those local successful and accomplished restaurants which came and went over the decades and for that reason they do have a historical importance which, despite my reluctance, I have to acknowledge. We all know that the film which wins the ‘Best Picture’ Oscar is not, almost certainly, the best film of the year and the same is true of the Michelin awards. Here in the Midlands we are pragmatic, recognise the silliness of the Michelin awards but go along with them. Let’s face it, we’re not treated with the contempt with which Michelin regards Manchester (England’s self proclaimed second city, ho! ho!) so things could be worse. And our brilliant local chefs are always pleased to be recognised by Michelin more than they are by any other Guide, being frequently moved to tears by the success. And why not?
So no new stars in Birmingham or the West Midlands and no extra stars for our 5 starred Birmingham restaurants or elsewhere in the region. Still at least no-one lost a star. In addition there were no new Bibs Gourmands but there were new Michelin Plates and a couple of other interesting awards.
And a great and pleasing surprise at almost the beginning of the show was the announcement of the award of the title Young Chef of Great Britain and Ireland 2021 to Kray Tredwell (see Blog 83) now well-established in his Digbeth restaurant 670 Grams (lockdown allowing) named after the birth weight of his child born last year. Along with this outstanding award came a Michelin Plate placing his restaurant at this early stage among the top 16 in Birmingham.
The other well-deserved Plate winner was Andrew Sheridan’s extraordinary 8 in the International Convention Centre which joined its sister restaurant Craft among the Birmingham Plates first eleven. Aktar Islam’s Pulperia also found itself joining that particular rank while of course his Opheem held on to its one star (joining Purnell’s, Simpsons, Adam’s and Carter’s of Moseley in doing so). While still in Moseley we might also note that Chakana was awarded a Plate thereby joining Asha’s, Folium, Harborne Kitchen, Opus, The Oyster Club and The Wilderness in the prized group of eleven.
Elsewhere in the West Midlands little else to report except that Daylesford Organic Farm restaurant, described in the programme as being in Stow-On-The-Wold but described on the restaurant’s website as being in Moreton-on-the-Marsh in Gloucestershire, was the only dining place in the region to be awarded one of the new Michelin Sustainability Green Stars. Good for them.
Summary of Birmingham restaurants’ Michelin status 2021:-
One star, ⭐️ Simpsons, Purnell’s, Adam’s, Carter’s of Moseley, Opheem.
Michelin plate, 🍽 Asha’s, Chakana, Craft, 8, Folium, Harborne Kitchen, Opus, The Oyster Club, Pulperia, 670 Grams and The Wilderness.
Finally, is it wrong of me to say that I think I’ve aged rather better than Gordon Ramsey has? ....
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