350. Friday Night At The Wilderness.

 

  Sunday lunch at Gulp may have been an experience for a man and his dog (see previous Blog) but the preceding Friday night at The Wilderness was definitely a human thing. The place was buzzing at full power, Alex Claridge was in the kitchen, the steam was wafting over the cooking area, Sonal Clare was in charge of the drinks, the background music was pounding away (perhaps just a little too much for an old bloke) and the menu was crazy. But was it any good, this concession to the the march of autumn?

  My dining companion wanted to indulge himself in the 10 course tasting menu and, being easily, led and went along with him.

  The opening snack was something everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime apart from me who should experience it every day or, preferably, several times per day - an exquisite, crispy croquette of pigs head with sweet bursts of apricot. 

  Then a chunky beef tartare with a bit of chew to it but very tasty. Next Cornish mackeral with slices of grape - sweet and sour. A great dish.

  For the second time this week, previously at Purnell’s, I worked up a frenzy of pleasure for a dish that included beetroot - an exquisite beetroot ice cream served with a very pleasing ajo blanco, how I do love cold Spanish soup, especially when it was as good as this. Highly memorable.

  There followed nicely cured Chalkstream trout with the popping pleasure of its roe and an espuma with its gift of ginger. How gloriously, deeply orange. One fault for me, though not to my dining companion, was the following shitake bread pudding - I just don’t like its texture with barbecued shitake.

  The turbot was accurately cooked but I thought the smoked eel sauce stole away the pure flavour of the fine piece of fish - I should have enjoyed a more subtle accompaniment.

  And so to the main - a fine uncomplicated dish of nicely cooked venison with buxom blackberries (sadly my photography skills eluded me at this juncture and the result was a very fuzzy picture (unusable) of a two fine pieces of meat.

  The desserts -

 ‘Mascarpone’ - a delightful crème caramel - exceptionally enjoyable with the use of Pedro Ximenez in the dish  - accompanied by a rather dull pastry which I could have done without particularly as another pastry in the the form of a cacao tart served with very old balsamic was to follow.

  Finally, two mignardises hopped on to the table - well actually they were delivered to it by Chef Claridge with whom it was nice to exchange a quick couple of words - a little, intricately-decorated chocolate frog each, to see us on our way.

Rating:- 🌞🌞.

348. Sublime Opheem.

 

  A day after what I described as a “sublime” dinner at Purnell’s, I was at Opheem for another meal which I shall also describe as - spoilers - “sublime”.

  This restaurant is so good. It is difficult to fault and not to praise with the most generous of adjectives. It is an experience of the highest grade. From the delightful amuses gueles served with an aperitif in the comfortable, spacious, perfectly judged atmosphere of the lounge by front of house staff who interact with the diners unimpeachably to each course served in the equally spacious and pleasing dining room, its lighting just right, the background music interesting but unobtrusive, the thrill of the place matched by its calmness. 

  

   I opted for the five course menu but received rather more than five, each one a gustatory triumph. There was bhutta , the charred, spiced corn on the cob with its companion cornet of corn ice cream, a familiar and always welcome old friend to welcome you back to Opheem. 

 There was the fabulous gajar, a heritage carrot dish which shows that some heritage carrot dishes are not as tired as they often seem to be in some restaurants which serve them. A tiny lentil pakora brought a smile to my face and the soothing flavour of mint slotted in perfectly to the whole dish. How gorgeous it looked too. Then came another old friend - aloo tuk - with its achaari foir potatoes and the sweet fire of tamarind. Then the milk loaf with its accompanying mutton keema and malty dip.

  But wait! Who’s that? At the pass - I recognise that face - not someone I expected to see - Chef Richard Turner, clearly not now in retirement. I asked if I was right in my identification and yes, it appeared I was - he does some sessions at Opheem having become tired of his retirement. “He still doesn’t smile but he’s happier now” and judging by the food being presented on his watch, in spanking good form.

  After the sublime venison at Purnell’s the evening before, I was almost emotional to find that the mutton main course at Opheem this evening was of equal brilliance. Mutton it may have been but as tender and deliciously and mildly flavoured as any lamb. Served with a dopiaza sauce, the blackened onions tender and sweet with the zing of charring and there was leek to add to the flavour and texture. 

   A lovely dessert rounded it all off bringing with it cardomom and pistachio and white chocolate. Who can ask for anything more? Well a little more perhaps, back to the lounge for coffee and a selection of mignardises which included happy tiny white chocolate madeleines and a jelly and a macaroon.

  All quite magical. And sublime.

   🌞🌞🌞.

347. Sublime Purnell’s.

 

  Purnell’s. A special evening of champagne and a four course menu for Purnell’s particular fans. Irresistible. An evening of generous quaffing of Piper Heidsiek champagne served by Adrien Garnier and a truly sublime four course meal which, let’s face it, has long been a meal of choice with its accompanying few extras. Extras there were - gorgeous snacks of crab and caviar springs to mind.

   The starter was quite suburb. Purnell par excellence. A combination of cherry and beetroot, matching perfectly - an accurate balance of flavours and textures. As great a starter as you will find anywhere. Feed it me everyday for the rest of my life please. 

    Then a fish course of scallop - who doesn’t love a scallop? - Glynn Purnell really knows his audience. A delicious combination here to bring out the sweetness of that mighty mollusc, cooked to the most perfect degree. With it came maitake, the earthiness an ideal match for the sea of the scallop, enhanced by the xo sauce, and artichoke and potato pressé.

    The main of venison was simple and sublime. Gorgeous, absolutely spot-on venison, as tender as butter, and with it white garlic, very fine red wine salsify and shallot. 

  Finally a blackberry and hazelnut delice -  ‘tis certainly the time o’year for such as dish - and beautifully complemented by the refreshing zing of lemon mascarpone.

  This meal demonstrates that there’s life in the old master yet, how a four course meal can be pleasurable when compared with the survival course of a prolonged tasting menu and how relative simplicity may yet give the greatest satisfaction.

Rating:- 🌞🌞🌞

346. To Moreton-In-Marsh. Dinner At The Woodsman.

 

  The Labrador and I took the bus from Stratford upon Avon past Shipston to Moreton in Marsh. This is a pretty market town, a gateway to the Cotswolds on the edge of Gloucestershire with numerous gorgeous Cotswold stone buildings reflecting its past and present wealth, for centuries tied to the wool industry. Home to the Michelin-listed Henne as well as some fine-looking inns and most, if not all, dog-friendly. An early lunch, to tie in with the return bus times, at the lovely Black Bear Inn - spacious and bright with an enticing menu.

  Given my love for Ploughman’s Lunches, and bearing in mind I was going to dinner in the evening, I opted for the PL and very pleased too I was with it. There was a remarkably tasty warm scotch egg, memorable sausage meat surrounding a reasonably well cooked though not totally runny egg with a good slice of fabulous local ham, sweet cocktail onions, leaves, a generous chunk of bread and a not entirely memorable Cheddar cheese. But washed down with cider this made for a very happy meal in a lovely setting.

Rating:- 🌛🌛.

  The dog and I wandered around the town ahead of the return journey noting the other inns nearby but dismayed by the sight and sound of the constant, very heavy motor traffic, swollen by the large number of tourist motor coaches, running along the main road which cuts through the town. A Cotswold haven ruined.

  In the evening, to The Woodsman in Stratford upon Avon for dinner, hopeful that it had pulled itself together compared with the last two or three times I had dined there. My hopes, however, were dashed. Again the meal was made up of overworked dishes and challenging combinations when more simplicity may have had a more pleasing outcome. After a pleasing cocktail, I chose a starter of Terrine of free-range chicken, with confit leg and smoked breast, chicken liver parfait, red grapes, frisée salad and truffle dressing. The terrine which looked gaudy and extravagant was rather dry and the grapes were a relief with their sweetness. Not a great pleasure.

  I chose a main of Fillet of Cornish stone bass served with dull, wood fired ratte potatoes, welcome Salcombe crab, the inevitable sea herbs which did contribute and a cucumber butter sauce which also worked quite well. The fish itself was on the edge of being overcooked but acceptable but it can not be said that it was visually alluring. The sweet cucumber pickle brought a little life to this dowdy dish.

  I chose a fairly disastrous dessert - poached and marinated local plums which were largely flavourless - my plum tree at home has yielded some beautifully delicious and sweet plums this year so these dull boys came as a great disappointment. The dreary fruit was accompanied by tiny fragments of sponge cake - claimed to be a hazelnut financier on the menu, a hazelnut crumble which for me was too much texture and the pleasurable relief of a wood fired plum sorbet which was the one light in an expensive and sorry effort by whoever was taking on the role of pastry chef. 

  The Head Chef and management seriously need to rethink what they’re doing to the food at this restaurant and restore a degree of simplicity to ensure that fine ingredients are more easily appreciated.

Rating:- 🌛.