I say nasty and spiteful things about London often. They are probably justified. But it is magnificent - particularly a couple of weeks before Christmas in the gathering dark of the late afternoon or early evening. Everywhere bustling crowds of Christmas shoppers, the skies lit up by the lights at Leicester Square with its vast Christmas market, the old tarted up Dickensian streets heading off Piccadilly in the direction of Covent Garden, the tuk tuks gaily lit up and playing appealingly noisy Asian music on this evening drowned out by the clamour from the horns of the tractors driven by angry farmers, heading in convoy down Piccadilly. The magnificent glamour of the Theatre Royal Drury Lane where I was to see The Tempest with the American film star, Sigourney Weaver, in the role of Prospero. Yes, London is magnificent with more theatres and restaurants in this small area than the whole of Birmingham. Only London could support such a number with its vast local population and its brigades of tourists.
And so for pre-theatre dinner. I had chosen to dine at Fallow in Haymarket after seeing its Chef Patrons featured on the BBC’s Saturday Kitchen. They spoke of the restaurant’s iconic mushroom parfait, the reputation of which rested on the inclusion of shitake mushrooms, and which every table chose as one its dishes, or so they said.
Naturally therefore I chose the mushroom parfait as my starter; why swim against the current? It was very good, smooth, full flavoured, the occasional hint of an acceptable bitterness. It was served with home grown lionsmane mushroom and smoked shitake which was more exciting on paper than in the eating but I liked the dish because its richness was pleasing and well tempered and not overwhelming. A well judged dish.
I was seated at the counter with a ringside view of the young chefs, calm, professional and artistic, as they shucked oysters, flamed some dishes dramatically with the scorching heat felt where I sat, plated up and generally presented a piece of theatre better, it turned out, than the theatre I would later see at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane.
And the food was theatre too. Or at least, the chosen main course of the diner sitting next to me was certainly theatre and for some it May have been a horror drama - smoked cod’s head served with the house sriracha sauce and leek oil. The size of it was immense and for the first time I appreciated just what the teeth of this fine beast look like as it gawped in my direction - irregular little needles which up until then I might only have expected to find in the mouth of a piranha. And there was so much meat on it; my fellow diner was hard pushed to clear it all.
I was relieved to have chosen the accurately cooked and generously portioned stone bass with mild but tasty Goan curry, the soothing but tangy lime pickle yoghurt and mini, clever samphire pakoras which is a pleasing way to serve the otherwise done-to-death sea herb.
The restaurant was buzzing, the atmosphere was exciting, the air was filled with noise and the aromas of cooking and the service was attentive and well-judged. And yet I felt comfortable and peaceful, just the mood for enjoying fine but rustic food.
The Chelsea tart could not be resisted as dessert, the experience of creamy caramel and good pastry served with a mincemeat icecream bringing with it a happy self-indulgence which if this present government has its way, may be something denied to us in the future.
And so somewhat gastronomically euphoric, I disappeared into the Christmas crowds and headed for the Theatre Royal Drury Lane to see one of the worst productions of a Shakespeare play - a mangled The Tempest - I can remember having inflicted on me. Still the theatre is so beautiful that a visit was worthwhile if one ignores the appalling king’s ransom one has to pay for a decent seat at a London theatre in the present times.
Dan Merriman, born in Worcestershire but now working in the north-west, won the final of the BBC’s Masterchef The Professionals. He came over as a lovely man and a chef of great skill, application, modesty, inventiveness and meticulousness. There was not a dry eye in the house as he was awarded the trophy.
Aktar Islam’s two Michelin-starred Opheem was placed sixth in Harnden’s list of the top 100 restaurants in the United Kingdom. Also included in the list was Grace and Savour at number 30, Fraiche at Oswestry at number 61, Upstairs by Tom Shepherd at number 68 and The Wilderness at number 90. The West Midlands remains underrepresented but it’s fine restaurants at least represent it we’ll.
Dan Lee is to give up his residency at the Hockley Social Club. I hope we see him soon in a proper restaurant of his own,
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