I have not visited Albatross Death Cult (ADC) for some time simply because I had dined there so many times that I felt that I needed a rest from its seafood menu and abundance of sake. In the meantime Grace Dent had dined there and pronounced it to be one of the five best seafood restaurants in Britain and the highly talented and ebullient Senior Chef, Piotr Szpak, who led the ADC team, is no longer in his post there having worked at The Wilderness and ADC for six years.
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Piotr Szpak |
Leading the service at ADC therefore was Oliver Grieve who had been working alongside Piotr Szpak while studying for his degree in Culinary Arts Management at University College Birmingham and being recently awarded it asa First Class degree with Honours. In his Linked in page Grieve noted his role as Senior Sous Chef at ADC, to which role he was appointed in January 2025, and described the restaurant as, “a brutalist Japanese-inspired restaurant”
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Oliver Grieve.
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But ADC has now reached its first birthday and this seemed like the right time to renew my acquaintance with this remarkable dining establishment and so I made a reservation for lunch there. The day started sunny and mildly humid but thunder was threatened in the late afternoon; was this the weather forecast or the fine dining forecast? In the end there was no thunder in the skies but there was a thunderously spectacular display of culinary brilliance inside the lovely old factory which is home to ADC. Quite simply, much of the food served, if not all of it, was quite fabulous. And the drinks on offer made this restaurant very unique and a sort of miniature Wonderland and I, very much, was the man who disappeared down the rabbit hole in pursuit of the white rabbit of gastronomic superlativeness.




Entering and then sitting in the anteroom to sip a fine cocktail, one immediately appreciates that ADC is no ordinary restaurant. In the restaurant proper, Ollie Grieve and his assistant are busy preparing the first dishes of the meal - some are reassuringly familiar and warmly welcoming while others are new and promising. The menu, handed over at the end of the meal to the diners as they prepare to pay the bill and head off back on to the mean streets, provides a resumé of the pleasures which have been delivered over a joyous three hours or so. None, absolutely none, have failed to delight.
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‘Oyster’ |
There’s the remarkable ‘oyster’, an old friend to tickle up the tastebuds and reignite the sea in the mouth of the diner. And then the lovely trout tartare with crémeux fraiche and wasabi croustade served alongside a brutally tasty prawn and nam jim tartlet. The dishes are illustrated below - some familiar, some new - the crispy cod skin with taramasalata was perfectly balanced by the rhubarb gel piped on to it.
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‘Trout, Crémeux fraiche wasabi’ croustade & ‘Prawn/Nam jim tartlet’ |
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‘Cod skin/Taramasalata/Rhubarb’ |
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Mackerel/Seabuckthorn |
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Oily mackeral is always a challenge to my aging digestive system but the fish’s strong flavour was matched by the strong hit of sea buckthorn and then a new dish - tuna nigiri - in the form of faux nigiri whereby the boat of rice was substituted for by a pleasing little beignet. A clever little soupçon.
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‘Tuna ‘nigiri’’ |
The following ‘cox crab - apple - sorrel’ dish was an old faithful but very toothsome for all that and the new dish of supremely beautifully cooked cod with an onion broth was lovely.
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‘Cox crab/Apple/Sorrel’ |
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‘Cod/Onion/Tallow’ |
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‘ Mussel/Black pepper/Iberico’
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It seemed to me that ADC’s signature mussel/black pepper/Iberico has reached a new punchy level of flavour and the plump mussels were much to be admired but the little bits of Iberico and tang of pepper are the secret to the pleasure that the dish brings to the diner. A new monkfish dish was certainly the most tender use of this ingredient I have experienced in many a moon and the subsequent chalk stream trout with trout roe and sesame was simply beautiful.
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‘Monkfish/Seaweed’ |
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‘Chalkstream trout/Roe/Sesame’ |
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‘Sushi rice ice cream/“Umami”’
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Another ADC signature arrived as the sole dessert - the gorgeous sushi rice icecream with crisps of nori and a nice punchily fruity pate de fruit rounded everything off. ADC remains at the top of its game and indeed may have reached new heights.
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‘Petit four’ pate de fruit. |
A lovely touch by the charming staff as I left - a gift bag for my new Labrador puppy.
Rating:- 🌞🌞🌞
13 June 2025.